We’ve all been there — staring down a beat-up cabinet, trim, or wall, wondering if we have to sand it before painting. Sanding is dusty, time-consuming, and honestly... a little soul-sucking. But here’s the thing: whether or not paint will stick without sanding depends entirely on the surface and the type of paint you’re using.
If you skip sanding when it’s needed, your paint might look fine at first… but then peel, chip, or scratch off like a bad sunburn. Not cute. Let’s break down when you can ditch sanding — and when you absolutely shouldn’t.
Sanding isn’t just about smoothing things out — although that’s definitely a bonus. Here’s what it actually does:
So no, sanding isn’t just busywork. It’s the handshake between your surface and the paint.
Good news — you don’t always need to sand. Here are the safe zones:
Surface Type | Condition | Sanding Needed? |
---|---|---|
Pre-painted drywall | Clean, dull, no damage | Nope |
Matte/eggshell walls | Clean, in good shape | Optional |
New drywall | After primer only | No (but sanding mud is standard) |
Chalk paint furniture | Already matte and porous | Rarely |
Raw wood (unfinished) | Very smooth, no gloss | Light sanding recommended |
The common thread? You can skip sanding when the surface is clean, dull, and already paint-friendly.
Now for the non-negotiables. You must sand if:
If you want your paint to last more than a week, don’t skip sanding on those surfaces.
Here’s the scary part: your paint may not stick at all. Or worse — it sticks just enough to look good for a few weeks before flaking off. You’ll end up with:
And guess what? Fixing a botched paint job takes more time (and money) than just sanding in the first place.
At Lightmen Painting, we've seen too many projects ruined because someone didn’t take 10 minutes to sand. From peeling kitchen cabinets to blotchy doors, skipping this step often leads to a costly do-over. Even a quick scuff can make all the difference in adhesion and finish quality.
Sort of — some paints or bonding primers claim they can go directly over slick surfaces. Here’s what you can consider:
Even with these, a light scuff-sand can improve performance. Don’t believe the “no-prep needed” hype too easily.
This one surprises a lot of folks. Yes — lightly. Not for adhesion, but for smoothness. Between coats, especially on furniture or trim, a quick sand with 220-grit can remove dust nibs or minor bumps. It’s the secret to that silky-smooth, pro-level finish.
Not necessarily. Here's what works well:
Tool Type | Best For |
---|---|
Sanding sponge | Small, contoured surfaces |
Sandpaper (120–220 grit) | General use and in-between coats |
Orbital sander | Large flat areas |
Deglosser (liquid sandpaper) | Alternatives for minor prep |
A $1 sanding sponge can save a $100 mistake.
Liquid sandpaper (or deglosser) can help dull glossy finishes if used correctly. It’s especially handy for tight trim or detailed cabinets. But it’s not a one-size-fits-all replacement for sanding. When in doubt, do both — a quick sand followed by a wipe-down with deglosser.
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Not well. Paint typically struggles to adhere to shiny or slick surfaces unless they're sanded or treated with a bonding primer.
Deglossers work for minor prep or small areas, but they’re not always a full replacement. For best results, use both.
Almost always — especially with high-use items. Sanding ensures better adhesion and longer-lasting results.
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Lightmen Painting Serving: Portland, Tigard, Lake Oswego, Tualatin, West Linn, Milwaukie, Sherwood, Happy Valley, Oregon City, Beaverton, Hillsboro, Gresham